A history of high heels, from the Orient to Louis XIV

From the steppes to the court: the epic of the heel

High heels, symbols of power and seduction, have their roots in the steppes and dunes of the Orient. Worn by Mongol and Persian horsemen as early as the ^12th century, they ensured stability in the stirrups, allowing for absolute control of their mounts during difficult rides. Their arrival in Europe marked the beginning of a meteoric rise, the heel transforming into a symbol of status and authority.

Raising one's rank: a question of height

Rising above the crowd, literally, became a mark of distinction. While owning a horse was already an outward sign of wealth, wearing high heels while riding elevated social status. The heel, like a totem, conferred an aura of power and prestige, and continued to be associated with these qualities throughout history.

The test of style: between grace and danger

Men, however, learned very early on the price of sacrificing to fashion… At the Battle of Sempach in 1386, the Austrian cavalrymen who wanted to dismount to continue the fight were paralyzed by the excessive length of their pointed iron shoes, which had to be shortened by the armorers…

The court and the city: the heel spreads

From the beginning of the ^16th century, men and women alike adopted heels, not only for riding but also for public life. Catherine de Medici, by wearing 5.5-centimeter heels at her wedding, initiated a trend that would mark the history of fashion. Mary Tudor, to compensate for her short stature, sported the highest heels possible, soon followed by the entire European aristocracy. High heels were a great success and became synonymous with privilege.

The reign of the heel: between splendor and excess

The ^17th century saw the heyday of the heel. Nicolas Lestage, master shoemaker to Louis XIV, created heels 10 to 12 centimeters high, adorned with battle scenes. These "Louis heels" became the object of everyone's desire, with ladies vying to outdo each other in refinement and height. Louis XIV, protective of his status, decreed that only nobles could wear red heels and that no one could exceed the height of his own.

Foot fetishism: between eroticism and power

The ^18th century was then marked by a veritable foot fetish, reflected in both fashion and literature. Heels became thinner, longer, and more pointed, for both men and women. Madame de Pompadour popularized the narrow heel, which now bears her name. Novelists like Restif de la Bretonne eroticized the finely arched foot and the delicately curved heel. The heel, like the corset, sculpted the body, giving it an aristocratic and desirable appearance. This transformation of the body was, in fact, the reason for the establishment of several laws in England and the New World penalizing the wearing of high heels by women seeking to seduce men with the aim of marriage.

Revolution and modernity: the end of an era

The French Revolution put an end to the hegemony of the nobility and its symbols, including high heels. French fashion became simpler, and since it was still the most followed, the same happened throughout Europe.

By the mid- ^19th century, men had stopped wearing high heels. In addition to the socio-political upheavals of the French Revolution, improvements in carriages and the advent of the railway eliminated the need for boots primarily designed for riding. Heels then became the preserve of women.